Ever wonder if your dream project is even physically or financially possible? While renovations often feel like a guessing game, new homes aren't entirely exempt from their own set of challenges. Yes, even when starting from scratch, there are crucial factors to consider.

First things first, the age-old question— is it possible?

Most things are possible with the right structural engineering and architectural design team. However, the real question isn’t can it be done—it’s how much will it cost? To help you better understand your options and make informed decisions, we’re diving into the different construction approaches and their cost implications.

1. Going Up vs. Going Under vs. Going Out
When you’re adding space to your home, you have three main options: building up, under, or out. Let’s break down each choice:

• Going Up: Building a second story is often the most expensive option. Your existing structure and foundation may not be able to support the additional weight, requiring structural reinforcements to the existing structure and foundation which involves some extensive engineering. This could mean adding steel beams, additional framing, or even a new foundation to bear the load.

• Going Under: Building under involves lifting the house and building below, whether that’s a basement below grade or a new floor at grade level. While it’s also a costly process, it is usually a less expensive option than building up. However, this may still require replacing or strengthening the existing foundation to ensure it can handle the additional weight. And yes, sometimes it’s easier, cheaper and just overall better to remove the existing foundation than it is to add to it.

• Going Out: Building out is always the least expensive and most straightforward option as you avoid costly modifications to the existing structure or foundation. This option works best if your lot has the space to accommodate the extension.

2. Renovate vs. Demo and Rebuild
Sometimes it’s hard to decide if your existing home is worth saving.

• Renovate: Renovating can be more affordable if the structure is sound and your goals don’t involve major changes. But unexpected issues, like old wiring or hidden damage, can add up.
  
  Other times it’s best to renovate when you live near any body of water. In most cases if you demolish the home, you are unable to rebuild in the same spot. If that’s the case, the best option is to renovate, even if it means taking it down to the studs.
  
  
  

• Rebuild: Starting fresh might seem daunting, but it allows you to design exactly what you want without worrying about compromising with an old layout or structure. Plus, you can incorporate modern energy efficiency and materials from the ground up.

For more information on whether a renovation or a demolition is right for you, visit this article and for more specificity on your project, join us at one of our Q&A’s or schedule a private call.

3. Trusses vs. Stick Framing
Let’s talk about how we frame our roofs and visually what you see from inside. It's not as complicated as you think.

• Trusses: Trusses are prefabricated roof systems made in a factory and out of 2x4 framing and nail plates. They are pre engineered and designed for large spans. They are generally faster and more affordable to install, but they can also be complex and elaborate. You can have flat ceilings or vaulted ceilings. They’re perfect for standard and complex roof shapes but limit your ability to customize attic or ceiling spaces.

• Stick Framing: Stick framing is now a custom-built option but was the traditional method of building a roof. They use ridge beams and rafters to make the vault but this means that your spans are limited. This offers flexibility for vaulted ceilings or storage spaces, but it takes longer and costs more due to on-site labor. To reduce your span you can add things like collar ties or a bottom chord to make the ceiling flat. 

While both can be complex, speak with your designer on how you want to utilize the space, if at all, and if you want your ceilings vaulted, or some type of ceiling detail. Also consider your insulation (spray foam or batt insulation). If you’re a type of person who does not want spray foam, then there needs to be enough room between the rafters to allow for batt or mineral wool insulation. 

This information will be passed on to your engineer who will then design the roof system to allow for what you’re looking for.

4. Removing Walls and Vaulting Ceilings
These two questions are the most common with renovation. So if you’re dreaming of an open-concept layout or take that flat ceiling and open it up, let’s talk about it.

• Removing walls is the easiest of the two and often involves adding a beam and posts to support the weight of the ceiling or upper floor. This requires a structural engineer to determine the size of the posts and beam. If you’re not wanting a drop beam, meaning you don’t want to see the beam, this is where the structural engineer shines. Where it’s not possible is if you have trusses. You cannot cut trusses.
  
  If you’re not sure if your wall is a supporting wall, meaning it’s supporting structures above— don’t just guess. Every time you want to remove walls you should involve a structural engineer. Their minimal cost far outweighs the potential damage of a guess.
  
  
  

• Vaulting ceilings is a great way to add ceiling height or define a space but it’s not always possible. If your ceiling is trussed, you cannot alter the ceiling without removing the entire roof trusses over the area you’d like to vault and starting new. If your ceiling is stick-framed, you may be able to alter the existing space without having to remove the roof. This could be extremely simple or somewhat complex depending on how it was built. 

5. Flat vs. Sloped Lots
The slope of your property can have a big impact on construction costs.

• Flat Lots: Easier and cheaper to build on, flat lots are great for simple foundations like a slab-on-grade or crawlspace. While you can also build a basement with a flat lot, you will have to include window wells or create your own sloping yard for getting natural light into the basement or creating a walk-out basement, which can add a lot to the cost.

• Sloped Lots: Sloped lots offer great opportunities for unique designs, like walkout basements or tiered landscaping, but require more excavation and retaining walls, which can add significantly to your budget.

6. Foundation vs. Foundation
Slab-on-grade vs. crawlspace vs. basement...  which is the best option. Let’s look at the differences.

Slab-on-Grade
The slab-on-grade foundation is the most affordable option and involves pouring a concrete slab directly over insulation on the ground with the perimeter having some sort of structural footings. While cost-effective, it doesn’t offer any under-home storage and all your utilities, like plumbing pipe, are in the concrete. Once that slab is poured, changes are costly so if you’re planning a future renovation or addition, keep in mind that accessing those utilities will mean jackhammering through the concrete. Concrete floors can also get pretty cold during the winter months unless heated.

Crawlspace
A crawlspace gives you a small, accessible gap under the home for utilities and some light storage. It’s a step up in cost because it requires additional insulation, concrete, and a flooring system, but it can be worth it in areas with a high water table or if you’re looking for more flexibility. With a crawlspace, your floor will be wood instead of concrete, and all your services will be exposed in the ceiling below for easier access. Just remember to check your city bylaws—there’s usually a height limit for crawlspaces and it’s usually around 5 feet.

Basement
If you’re already considering a crawlspace, why not go all the way with a basement? Basements are not just an extra few feet— it’s extra concrete, insulation, framed walls, drywall, and finishing. A basement includes stair access, lighting, outlets, windows for natural light, likely another bathroom, etc. What about an unfinished basement? Gone are those days. Depending on your province or state, you will likely have to take it to drywall, possibly taping and mudding. There isn’t much left at that point.

One thing to keep in mind: Your designer will need to confirm with your local bylaws whether basement square footage counts toward your total allowable floor area.

Other Foundation Types
While these are the most common, there are variations that might be worth discussing with your designer. The choice can depend on factors like:

• Soil type and bearing capacity

• Frost depth and climate

• Your budget and project goals

• Local building codes and regulations

Every foundation has its pros and cons, and the right one will depend on your unique project and site conditions. Your design and construction team will help you weigh your options to find the best fit.

7. Rancher vs. Two-Storey Homes
Finally, let’s look at the pros and cons of single-level vs. multi-level living.

• Rancher: Single-level homes are ideal for accessibility and aging in place. They require a larger lot and foundation, making them more costly per square foot.

• Two-Storey: Two-storey homes maximize space on smaller lots and are typically more cost-efficient to build. However, stairs can be a drawback for some homeowners.

The cost differences? Think about it this way. You want a 2,000 sf. home. Your foundation and roof are the most expensive structures to build. You can either have a 2,000 sf. foundation and roof or a 1,000 sf. foundation and roof. That’s quite a large difference.

Each construction option has its benefits and challenges, but understanding them is key to making the best choice for your project and budget. If you have additional questions specific to your project, send them our way—we’re always here to help and can answer your questions in real time and in our monthly Q&As.